Bali High

Thursday, September 30, 2010
Bali High
When you think of Bali ‘great mountain biking’ doesn’t immediately spring to mind—but this island paradise is home to some of Asia’s best trails, and it’s right on your doorstep.
Knowing exactly what to expect when first arriving in a strange land is always a bit of mixed bag; a blend of intrigue, excitement, and at times fear all mix together.
Although I know much of Southeast Asia inside out, for some reason I’d never been to Bali. Sure enough I‘d considered it a few times, all be it vaguely. But I guess it’s one of those situations where preconceptions take over, if you let them.
Bali; when you mention Bali so many conflicting images spring to mind. For most it’s images of a bustling beach resort with nightclubs and neon lights that jump out. To others it’s images of tranquil sandy escapes, while to some it’s spas and holy retreats. Well, within a couple of days on the island you’ll find that it is all of these and so much more. The beauty of the place is that you can take whichever slice you desire and leave the rest of the cake on the side, or scoff the whole lot if you like.
You can party, relax, find solace, get culturally enlightened, and ride awesome singletrack—all in the same day. Early explorers termed Bali ‘the perfect island’. And in many ways it is.
Alternative Holiday
Not being much of a beach bum, my reasons for heading to Bali were to get in some decent mountain biking, to see what the cultural and natural side were like, and of course to sample the local brews—something of a passion of mine. It’s always tough trying to find trails and information when travelling to destinations like Bali, where mountain biking is often an alien concept.
With this in mind I’d done plenty or research, and teamed up with Clare from the ‘Bali Trailblazers’. She is an ex-pat Pom who knows just about every padi field and volcano trail in this neck of the woods, thus guaranteeing that the great riding would be laid on and made easy to find.
Having poured over various maps of the island before my trip, I’d figured that Bali is more or less like a huge ‘wedge’ with towering volcanoes at the top end. These peaks peter out as travel closer to the densely populated south—I wasn’t far wrong.
Most of the islands trails are located on the sparsely populated northern and eastern flanks, around the two major volcanoes—Batur and Agung, impressive sights that dominate the vista on a clear day.
As we had only a couple of days to spare, cherry picking the rides was key—this meant hopping in the truck to get to the trails. It doesn’t take long on the road to get a feel for what Bali is all about; this place has more temples than you can shake your pump at. Every few seconds you’ll see some stone carved effigy or temple. The typical picture postcard images of colourful ladies carrying baskets on their heads, lush green terraced hillsides and smiley faces abound. It truly is a captivating place.
Lakes & Volcanos
Our first ride was a loop based around the impressive crater of Batur. Things start off around the caldera rim, and the outlook is stunning; a huge lake spans the carter base, peppered with fishing villages and a patchwork of agricultural lands. As you descend steeply into the crater these sights rapidly become life size and the trail winds around the lake before climbing to a near perfect ridgeline singletrack. These are trails used by locals and mountain bikers are a rarity, so you get that pioneering feel that is often lost in modern biking.
The lake is shadowed by the smouldering dormant volcano, and our route took us right through a lunar like lava field beneath it—great riding and not at all what I’d expected to find on Bali. But for me the best thing about the ride was getting into the heart of the country, seeing the small villages, and stopping to chew the turkey with the locals as they prepared for Galangal, their twice-yearly religious festival. They are seriously friendly people who are fascinated at the concept of mountain biking.
Batur had been a great introduction to Bali’s trails. I have to say they were better from a pure biking point of view than I’d imagined. But it was the following days riding that really stuck with me.
After following the coastal road to the eastern slopes of Agung volcano, we wove our way up an amazing hillside, which was a mass of wet padi fields, all neatly stitched together to make use of every patch of land. The trail wound it’s way up through the fields, and as we climbed higher the stronger the images became. Every few minutes we’d pass a small train of locals walking between villages, all brightly clad with baskets on their heads and all happy to see us. As for the descent, well it was awesome! Bali is so much more than you’d imagine and it is a really great place for every kind of mountain biking!
Bali Fact File
Country – Indonesia
Capital & airport – Denpasar
Language – Bahasa Indonesia
Religion – mainly Hindu
Climate – tropical/equatorial
Country IDD code +62
Currency – IDR (Indonesian Rupee) approx $1 = Rp 7,888
Recommended reading – Lonely Planet
Electric – 127/230v with two pin and three peg style plugs.
Time zone – GMT +8hr
Population – 3,160,000
Area – 5,620km
Getting There – there are numerous flights from major airports to Bali, both direct and scheduled flights that go via Jakarta. For most it is closer than flying from Sydney to Perth, so rates are competitive.
Visas & Paperwork – A visa is required for entry to Bali, these can be obtained in advance from Indonesian Embassy offices, or easier still on arrival at the airport. The procedure is pretty straightforward and you can obtain visas lasting from 1 week through to 1 month. Payment is in US Dollars ($10-$25). You will also need to pay a departure tax of Rp100, 000 (around AUS$12).
When to Go – Bali is very much a year round destination. The main resorts can get very busy during the Christmas period. Between June and September would generally be considered the best time for mountain biking, as these are the drier months. However, in recent years the weather has become pretty similar all year round, so it isn’t a major worry.
Eating & Drinking – You can get more or less any kind of food and drink in Bali—from western style food to traditional Balinese dishes. Around the towns and coastal areas you’ll find loads of great restaurants, and as you venture inland the fare becomes more typical with noodles, curry, seafood, and on special occasions suckling pig is popular. Bali is unusual in Indonesian terms as it is not Islamicly nurtured, so alcohol is also easily obtainable. Costs in general are around 20-40% less than in Australia.
Accommodation – There is a huge and varied array of accommodation available on the island. Along the busy coastal areas there are lots of high-end hotels, and also cheaper options. Head inland and prices decrease a little, but there is still plenty of choice, especially around Ubud, which is well known for it’s Balinese spa hotels and retreats—it is a favourite hangout of the rich and famous. At around $50 a night for a three star hotel, you certainly don’t have to be rich to stay here. For listings check out the Lonely planet guide or go to www.balitravelportal.com or www.visionbali.net. Alternatively ask Bali Trailblazers to make arrangements to suit your budget.
Bali Trailblazers
Bali Trailblazers is a company based in Denpasar that specialise is short to medium length mountain bike holidays. The owner is a Brit who has lived on the island for some time, and has probably the best knowledge available of the islands trail network.
The company can arrange just about anything you want; be it a day trip with bike hire included, or a two week long epic guided tour of the islands finest trails—and believe me you will need a guide to find the best trails as they are not marked.


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Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost

Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Young Balinese girls greet guests at the Amandari resort in Ubud.
Bali is sometimes referred to as the “Land of Paradise” and I truly believe this.  I don’t think it is a place I could live in for an extended period of time – I like temperate climates and I think I’d miss my creature comforts (like 2,000 cable channels) – but it is truly a beautiful, paradisiacal place.  Not Tuscany vineyard beautiful or striking gothic cathedrals of Budapest beautiful or bright red mountains of  Namibian desert sand beautiful, and not even Laotian impoverished beauty.  It’s simply a visually stunning place with some of the kindest, friendliest local people you will ever meet.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Rice field just outside our villa in Kerobokan.
Bali is one of over 17,000 islands that make up the Republic of Indonesia, but it is unique in that the predominant religion is Hindu, not Muslim like most of Indonesia.  Tourists coming to Bali settle into a handful of villages.  There is Kuta for the young, backpacker party crowd (dominated by Aussie surfers), Nusa Dua for the five star hotel properties, Ubud, up in the mountains for a more spiritual, healing experience and Sanur for families with children.  Francesca and I stayed our first week in a village called Keroboken which is still largely undeveloped with no large hotels and only a handful of quaint villas sprouting up between rice fields.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Franny at the stone gateway to the Dewani Villas in Kerobokan. Notice the white ‘thing’ on the ground (just above the word “play”) and see photo below.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
It is a ritual in Bali to place offerings, called canang, at the entrance to your property several times per day.  Walk, ride or drive anywhere in Bali and you will invariably see men or women placing these offerings (food, flowers, trinkets made from bamboo, etc. placed in a container made from palm leaves) on the ground along with incense.  The amount of offerings placed depends on your financial situation, but generally it is thought that the more you offer the better protected you will be against evil spirits.  You can see massive offerings at any of the four or five star hotels in Bali.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
The Dewani Villa courtyard.  Our room was the top floor of the round building with the conical roof.
After months of ravaging our bodies with too much food and too little exercise Francesca and I decided to enjoy a healthy 10 day detox program and colon cleanse and figured the isolated Dewani Villas in Kerobokan would be the ideal place.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Garden path to our villa.
For those of you who have never tried a detox program (or think I am referring to sobering up from a drug binge) I will present the basics for you.  Detoxification is designed to help support the function of your digestive system and help your body eliminate waste more effectively, or at least that’s what it says on the Blackmore 10 Day Detoxification packaging we picked up in Sydney.  The package continues with five ways in which this detox program works:
  1. Maintain healthy functioning of the digestive system
  2. Assist sluggish liver function (we sure need that after all the drinking we’ve been doing)
  3. Balance and maintain healthy gut flora (I had no idea my gut had flowers in it!)
  4. Gently help cleanse the bowel (yeah, gently my ass! No pun intended)
  5. Assisting the removal of dead skin cells via exfoliation
At each meal during our day Francesca and I would take, as instructed, Milk Thistle (liver), Acidophilus Bifidus (Intestines), Digestive Bitters (stomach – totally nasty tasting liquid!) and Blackmore’s patented Colon Care (colon) which helps ease the discomfort of your loose bowels.  Every other day we would put on these electric blue exfoliation gloves and rub ourselves silly, all in the name of healthcare of course.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Me using the Dewani Villas’ outdoor kitchen to cook up a tasty tofu and veggie stir fry meal.  The secret, kids, is in the generous use of soy sauce.  I purchased the ingredients at a small, local roadside warung (like a bodega) near our villa.
In addition to the pills and potions there was a diet regimen to adhere to as well.  It was essentially a true vegetarian diet (no chicken or fish either) and no dairy and limited carbs.  Having been carnivorous gluttons for three months we thought this abrupt diet change would cause us problems, both physically and mentally, but we found the side effects to be largely benign.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
The Pulp Art Spicy Baked Tempe Wrap was our favorite.
On a walk around our neighborhood on day one we discovered Pulp Art, an amazing organic wrap restaurant where we ended up eating the majority of our meals (sometimes dining in their free wi-fi zone, sometimes getting take out).  While we tried many delicious wraps, our favorite was the Spicy Baked Tempe Wrap.  Tempe, as I found out, is a cake form of soybeans originated in Indonesia which tastes, surprisingly, a bit like chicken (but not really).  We ate a ton of tempe while in Kerobokan.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
The winding, country road that leads to Dewani Villas.
We spent a lot of our time walking, both for exercise and for transport – even though the Dewani Villas had a complimentary shuttle on standby for quick trips around the neighborhood.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Each rice field has one of these “hooches” where guys sit around all day and try to keep birds away from the rice crop.  They accomplish this in two ways.  One way is to pull on those strings attached to the little hut which in turn waves those white flags and rattles the tin cans thereby scaring away the birds.  Another way is to scream their heads off at the birds until they fly away.  The former is by far the more pleasing to the bystander.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Balinese women working the rice fields near Dewani Villas.  While the men do all the plowing the women are right in there, bent over during the planting and harvesting process.
We also took advantage of the incredibly cheap prices for massages.  There was an upscale “Antique Spa” right next door to the Dewani Villas, but we only went there once because at $25 for a 1 hour Balinese massage it was way more than the typical $6-8 places scattered throughout the neighborhood.

“Antique Spa” in Kerobokan
While the adage “you get what you pay for” generally holds true in most situations, we discovered that this is not true for the massage trade in Bali.  Our $6 massages from the ladies calling tourists in off the streets to their makeshift massage rooms were equally as soothing (sometimes more so) than the full service, upscale spas.  Of course it is nice to have all the accouterments that you get with a full spa – the welcome drink, showers and decor that contributes to a zen-like atmosphere – but since we were on a budget and getting a one or two hour massage every day we figured it made sense to forego these amenities on most occasions.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
A traditional Balinese massage always begins with a foot scrub.  Francesca says I have Hobbit feat, but I think they’re gorgeous!
Francesca and I have now tried massages all over the world and many different styles, and we both feel strongly that the traditional Balinese massage is without a doubt the best we’ve encountered.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
No matter how low budget the massage place, they will always have flowers in a bowl of water beneath the headrest, a nice touch I think.
The Balinese massage is essentially a combination of deep tissue and Swedish massage with some elements of a Thai massage thrown in.  During the first part of the massage the masseuse will get up on the table and use her weight to push down on several key areas of your back and legs.  Then she’ll proceed to really get in there with some deep tissue action.  Finally, and this part takes up the majority of the hour, she’ll massage the full body (excluding your privates – this isn’t Hong Kong after all!) with long, strong strokes using scented aromatherapy oils of your choice.  Ahhh, heavan.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Most of the Bali massage places provide you with little unisex underpants to put on during your session.  They are flimsy, little garments that resemble a grandmother’s shower cap with holes cut out for legs.  Needless to say not a great look.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Franny relaxing in the Dewani Villa pool after an evening massage.
While we were very good about adhering to our diet we did treat ourselves one evening to a seafood spectacular on Jimbaron Bay beach.  We had heard from our friend Andrew (see Sydney, Australia posting) about the tasty fish served right on the beach.  He advised to skip past the myriad restaurants with their tables in the sand and just go down to the market where you can buy your fish just after its come off the fishing boat and have it grilled up for you. Then you sit on these low, plastic chairs in the sand and nosh away.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
I’m not sure if we went there too late, but we never did find any fishing boats or market.  So we doubled back and ate at one of the beach side restaurants choosing the one with the most amount of locals eating there figuring that would be the best.  The food was pretty good, but the dining conditions were less than ideal.  The evening wind whipped up so fiercely that each bite of delicious lobster had the extra crunch of sand grains.  Plus it was apparently karaoke night at this restaurant so we had to endure the locals’ off key renditions of classical Balinese techno pop.  Unlike Filipinos, not all Balinese can sing well we found out.

We did a lot of window shopping for glassware, ceramics and the famous Balinese teak wood furniture, but stopped short of make any purchases because of the ridiculous amount of red tape and expense to get anything shipped to the States….and because we realized we don’t have a house or apartment in which to put it.  It was fun shopping with faux intent just the same.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Japanese tourists taking a beginner surf lesson on the filthy sand of Kuta Beach.  I love that they have helmets on!
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
I wanted to try my hand at surfing, but I did not do so in Kuta.  I figured I can do that when we get to Lombok Island in a few days.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Upscale shops like Dolce & Gabbana are not quite the same in Kuta as they are in New York or Paris.  That is assuming it is even authentic D&G.  An expat friend living in Bali told us that while there are copyright and intellectual property laws in Indonesia, it’s the first person or company to copyright a logo or slogan that gets protected, regardless of whether they are the originators or not.  For example, some random Balinese guy copyrighted the Polo Ralph Lauren trademark and logo in Bali before Ralph Lauren did so he can use it and Ralph Lauren cannot. Its sounds incredibly unjust, but apparently that’s the way it goes here.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost
Kerobokan had some amazing sunsets, but not nearly as spectacular as those we witnessed in Lombok, the next stop on our RTW journey.
We’ve still got a few more days in the detox program – plus a 2 day juice fast that Franny has put on the agenda – but we already feel better about ourselves and have started to fit back into some of our clothes that had, heretofore, been a tight squeeze.
Bali: Paradise Found…..Weight Lost

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Jakarta

Jakarta Jakarta is the capital city of the Republic of Indonesia, a country composed of more than 13,000 islands with a population of over 180 million. Comprising more than 300 ethnic groups speaking 200 different languages, the Indonesia population exhibits marked diversity in its linguistic, culture, and religious traditions. As the Capital City, Jakarta is a melting pot of representatives from each of these ethnic groups. Jakarta is a special territory enjoying the status of a province, consisting of Greater Jakarta, covering of 637.44 square km area. Located on the northern coast of West Java, it is the center of government, commerce and industry and has an extensive communications network with the rest of the country and the outside world. Strategically positioned in the archipelago, the city is also the principal gateway to the rest of Indonesia. From the Capital City, sophisticated land, air, and sea transport is available to the rest of the country and beyond.



Jakarta is one of Indonesia's designated tourist areas. It is a gateway to other tourist destinations in Indonesia and is equipped with all the means of modern transportation by air, sea, rail, or by land. It has the largest and most modern airport in the country, the most important harbor in Indonesia and is well connected by rail of good roads to other destinations in Java, Sumatra, and Bali. As Indonesia's main gateway, Soekarno-Hatta International Airport serves a growing number of international airlines and domestic flights. Jakarta is a city of contrasts; the traditional and the modern, the rich and the poor, the sacral and the worldly, often stand side by side in this bustling metropolis. Even its population gathered from all those diverse ethnic and cultural groups, which compose Indonesia, are constantly juxtaposed present reminder of the national motto; Unity in Diversity


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Bali

Bali Bali Island, the perfect holiday destination for all ages offers something for everyone. Bali offers not just various customs but also various "adrenalin pump" parks. Many exciting amusements are available in Bali, with something new opening all the time. The number of offshore and inland attraction are on the rise because many tourists want them. This tropical paradise has a unique blend of modern tourist facilities combined with wonderful shopping and a rich past and heritage. After white water rafting that has gained popularity in Bali, comes offshore rafting or ocean rafting. The more adventurous sort of amusement has now become an alternative sport for tourists. Meanwhile white water rafting is still a popular activity with trips on Ayung, Telaga Waja, Unda Rivers, etc. The tourists can refresh their mind by watching beautiful scenery along the route. Those are not enough, some of the best surfing beaches in the world can be found on the western side of the island whilst conversely the eastern side is a wonderful haven for families, with beautiful white sand beaches and gentle seas.

Bali
Bali is small island, just 140 Km by 80 Km and lies between Java, the most highly populated and influential of all the islands, and Lombok, one of the quieter and moderately slower paced islands. Like many islands, Bali has developed a world of its own. It not only captures what is special about Indonesia but also has a uniqueness of its own.


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Taman Burung, Bali Indonesia

Taman Burung, Bali Indonesia
Taman Burung, Bali IndonesiaTaman Burung, Bali Indonesia 
Taman Burung Bali merupakan taman burung yang memiliki banyak koleksi burung terbaik Indonesia, dan termasuk pula koleksi burung yang berasal dari Afrika and Amerika Selatan. Taman Burung seluas dua hektar menjadi tempat tinggal yang nyaman bagi lebih dari 1000 jenis burung dari 250 spesies yang berbeda.
Taman Burung Bali akan menampilkan lebih dari 2000 jenis tanaman tropis, termasuk 50 jenis tanaman Palm and diramaikan pula dengan keharian kupu-kupu yang menarik. Penggabungan sebuah konsep peternakan, penelitian dan fasilitas keshatan hewan di Tman Burung, memiliki tingkat keberhasilan yang tinggi dalam penangkaran burung-burung yang menarik dan dilindungi.
Yang Bisa Dilihat
Di Taman Burung Bali anda bisa melihat koleksi burung dari Indonesia, Amerika Latin dan dari Afrika Selatan. Taman ini dibagi dalam beberapa area yang diatur untuk menyesuaikan kondisi natural habitat burung, serta dilengkapi pula dengan tanaman serta hiasan yang khas untuk menampilkan keasliannya. Berkunjung ke Taman Burung Bali, anda akan dapat melihat Burung Jalak Bali yang merupakan burung khas dari Bali dan termasuk sebagai burung yang langka di dunia. Anda juga dapat melihat burung kahs dari Papua yang sangat indah yaitu Burung Cendrawasih yang disebut juga sebagai Bird of Paradise. Taman Burung Bali juga menampilkan jenis Burung Elang and Burung Rajawali. Burung koleksi dari Amerika Selatan seperti Scarlet Macaw dan Toucan bisa anda dapatkan disini, termasuk pula Burung Beo and jenis lainnya yang berasal dari Negara Afrika.
Yang Bisa Dilakukan
Anda dapat menghabiskan waktu luang anda dengan berkeliling menikmati keindahan beraneka jenis burung yang terdapat di Taman Burung Bali adn menikmati keindahan suara yang dihasilkan dari beraneka ragam jenis burung. Anda juga dapat menyaksikan bagaimana mereka hidup di habitatnya serta berada dekat dengan kehidupan burung yang termasuk langka di dunia. Bali Bird Park (Taman Burung Bali) merupakan salah satu tempat wisata favorit khususnya bagi keluarga dan anak-anak. Kawasan Taman Burung ini terkenal akan koleksi burungnya yang langka dan merupakan ikon Bali, Jalak Bali (Starling).
Di Bali Bird Park anda akan diberikan sebuah petualangan seperti perjalanan mengelilingi Indonesia, Amerika Latin dan Afrika Selatan. Taman merupakan habitat alami burung, lengkap dengan tanaman ,kehidupan adat dan tradisional artefak untuk keasliannya. Temukan juga burung eksotis dari Papua dan salah satu koleksi burung yang terlengkap di dunia di seluruh dunia. crown-pigeon
crown-pigeon
Anda bisa juga melihat elang jawa , burung dari Sumatra dan burung endemik lainnya. Di bagian lain, ada species benua yang lain misalnua spesies dari amerika selatan : Scarlet Macaw dan Toucan, atau spesies afrika misalnya Kongo Grey Parrot dan unggas lainnya . berfoto-dengan-burung
berfoto-dengan-burung
Anda diberi kesempatan untuk memberi makan burung yang ada berfoto dengan burung di pundak anda, atau melakukan bird nursery.
Taman Burung, Bali Indonesia
Jalak Bali
Taman Burung, Bali Indonesia
Taman Burung, Bali Indonesia
Urip Mung Mampir Ngguyu


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At a Yemen bridal shower, the women let loose

At a Yemen bridal shower, the women let loose
A woman wearing a niqab and robe passes a shop displaying a less modest outfit in Sana, Yemen's capital. The niqab face covering has become a symbol for the lack of women's rights in the Islamic world. (Paul Stephens / For The Times)

April 12, 2010
Reporting from Sana, Yemen
Every woman at the bridal shower was drenched in color. One wore a lime green strapless gown with turquoise sequins; another a violet leopard-print caftan with scarlet lace; another a yellow, gold-beaded chemise with a neckline that would have made J-Lo blush.
Was this Yemen, or a strange mirage?
“Really, it is very bad,” said Samira Taher, one of the women at the shower. “If you see me in Egypt, I am always wearing the latest fashion, I have my hair in a new design, and I am wearing makeup, but here, I am wrapped in black. If a Yemeni woman wears what she wants, it is a scandal.”
In a country where the only women most visitors see are silent, demure and almost universally cloaked in a long black robe, their faces hidden behind the niqab, the bridal shower was like a hothouse of blooming flowers.
The niqab has become so ubiquitous in Sana, the capital, that some little girls wear training niqabs, just as little girls in America shuffle around in their mothers’ high heels, pretending they’re all grown up.
But follow the voices and the click of heels beyond closed doors to a parallel reality without men, a brief, sweet moment to peel back layers and slip cultural trappings.
At the shower, the disencumbered women split their time sneaking bites of chocolate cake with a shared fork, howling with laughter and dancing to loud music — sequin-emblazoned hips and shoulders shimmying in time with mincing steps.
When the music was over and the bridal plates were cleared, the re-bundling began.
The niqab, with its unrelenting blackness broken only by a narrow slit for the eyes, has become a symbol for the lack of women’s rights in the Islamic world, and in Yemen, it has become a point of contention between conservative sheiks and Yemeni politicians on the one hand, and westernized Yemenis and Yemeni women’s rights activists on the other.
“I am a Muslim. I pray, I fast, I follow what is in the Koran,” said Ramzia Aleryani, head of the Yemeni Women’s Union in Sana. “[The niqab] is not in the Koran. There is nothing Islamic about it — there is nothing in the Koran that says a woman must cover her face.”
Aleryani arms herself and her visitors with photocopied packets of Koranic passages and the prophet Muhammad’s sayings defending women’s rights. She says the niqab was imported to Yemen by Salafists, followers of an ultraconservative sect of Islam that originated in Saudi Arabia.
Thirty years ago, many Yemeni women wore traditional dresses or Western attire, and shared meals with men. The current vice governor of the southern port city of Aden said his mother used to walk around “in a miniskirt.”
To accept the niqab, Aleryani said, would be to accept many more often intolerant and regressive edicts.
“We are at war with the Salafists,” she said, unblinkingly. “It us versus them.”
Salafists and conservative political groups in Sana have in the last two decades gained an extraordinary amount of power in government and society. In the last few years, Salafists have threatened the Yemeni Women’s Union, left menacing phone messages for its leaders and published pamphlets decrying it as an anti-Muslim organization.
“Our women are cared for, respected and protected according to the Koran,” said Sheik Ali Werafi, a Salafist and a conservative member of parliament. “We cover them up to protect them. They have everything they need. The world comes to them. We do not need Western ideas imposed on our culture.”
A 2009 World Economic Forum report on gender equality lists Yemen for the fourth year in a row as the worst country to be a woman. Many girls are married when they are between 12 and 16 — some as young as 8 or 9 — to men they’ve never met. Afterward, they bear an average of 5.3 children. Outside the home, a woman is referred to as the “wife of” or the “mother of” — to do otherwise is often considered rude.
At the bridal shower, opinions were mixed. Faisa Hussein, one of the few women in Yemen with a university education, said Western countries fixate needlessly on the niqab.
“You,” Hussein said in an apparent reference to Western women, “hate us for wearing it. But I wear it because it makes me feel free. When I wear it, I can talk and laugh and eat and smile, and no one looks at me.
“I choose to wear it,” she said, wrinkling her nose, tanned in a strip across the bridge — the only part of her face ever exposed to the sun. “It is my choice.”
Hussein’s daughter, Shatha Alamory, who spent a year as a high school exchange student in Texas, nearly spit with rage at her mother’s response: “She’s right. Yemeni women cannot talk, laugh, eat or smile in public, or people will stare at them.”
Unlike her mother and sisters, 19-year-old Shatha refuses to hide her face. She wears a long black robe with a colorful head scarf instead, even though it means men in the street sometimes call her names. “They think I’m a ‘bad girl,’ ” she said. “I’m not.”
At the end of the night, the shower women gathered by the living room door, pulled on their robes and niqabs over their fuchsia, turquoise and lime green dresses, and said goodbye, their loud voices muffled by fabric.


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Socotra Island’s surreal beauty

Socotra Island’s surreal beauty
Socotra, Yemen. A villager in Qalansiya swims in the harbor on Socotra's west coast. (Paul Stephens)
.
So there I was, lying on my back in a bikini on a deserted white-sand beach in Yemen, squinting into the shimmering turquoise sea to the west, wondering if I could make out Somalia from here.
I couldn’t. Propped on my sandy elbows, all I could see were my own toes, a tract of impossibly fine white sand, and miles and miles of the Arabian Sea, which faded ever so slowly through a spectrum of teals before settling into a deep sapphire blue before, I couldn’t help thinking, bumping up against Somalia, 160 miles away.
The whole situation was a little surreal. Given my geographic location — Socotra, a sparsely populated Yemeni island in the pirate-infested waters of the Gulf of Aden, a boat ride away from one of the bloodiest failed states on Earth in one direction, and a war-torn, impoverished one in the other — I knew I had no business being in a flowery green bikini. But somehow at the time it all made sense.
Perhaps that’s because Socotra — the largest island in an eponymous, four-island archipelago off the southeast tip of Yemen — doesn’t feel like either Yemen or Somalia. It doesn’t really feel like anywhere on Earth.
The whole place has an eerily beautiful, otherworldly feel, beginning with its pocked and looming limestone cliffs, which drop into five-story-tall, white sand dunes, bisected at their bases by veins of grass tracing freshwater springs. Even the otherwise arid mountainsides and red sandstone plateaus look as if they were dreamed up by Dr. Seuss, thanks to the umbrella-shaped Dragon’s Blood trees — so-named because of their red, medicinal sap — that grow nowhere else in the world. My favorite is the Socotran desert rose, a beige rutabaga-shaped tree.
The Socotra archipelago broke off from mainland Africa 250 million years ago, and the island is now home to 700 endemic plant and animal species, according to a United Nations survey, earning it the nickname “Galapagos of the East.” The birds alone — masked boobies, warblers and cormorants — are worth the trip.
It’s no wonder then that Socotra has become a new destination for adventure travelers. In the past 10 years, Yemen’s tourism ministry, in partnership with dozens of international development organizations, has been working to replace the image of Yemen as an Islamic gangsters’ paradise with images of Yemen’s ancient and astonishing UNESCO Heritage Sites — of which Socotra is one — in order to lure much needed economic stimulus to this impoverished nation.
But that’s no small trick. Yemen’s once-vibrant tourism industry took a nosedive in 2000 when al-Qaida terrorists bombed the American destroyer USS Cole in a Yemeni harbor. Tourism continued to plummet after a local al-Qaida affiliate began targeting foreigners at tourist sites in Yemen’s eastern desert in 2007. The U.S. State Department’s travel warning about Yemen reads like something out of a Brian DePalma film: murder, violence, more murder.
The Yemeni tourism industry’s public-relations nightmare reached a crescendo recently, after a Yemeni-trained Nigerian student tried to bomb a plane flying into Detroit on Christmas Day, catapulting Yemen into the international limelight and renewing worries of the growth of al-Qaida and imminent war in Yemen and Somalia. Tourism in mainland Yemen, not surprisingly, is now basically nonexistent.
Casablanca charm
Remarkably, though, tourism to Socotra — which is roughly 250 miles away from Yemen’s mainland, and is considered safe by most experts — has weathered the bad press. Official estimates put the number of tourists to Socotra somewhere around 3,000 people a year — a dramatic increase since 1999 when a small airport, its hand-painted signs and walking tarmac all Casablanca charm, was erected.
Most visitors to Socotra are European and fall into the category of “ecotourists” — folks who are willing to forego flush toilets and electricity in exchange for some untrammeled nature. That’s partly by design. A decade ago, both the Yemeni and local governments signed on to a United Nations development plan that eschews building beachfront resorts in favor of small, family-owned campsites.
The result is that any visit to Socotra is rustic. There are no ATMs or Internet cafes on the island; even finding a power outlet can be tricky. The largest city on the island, Socotra’s capital, Hadibo, features tumbledown stone buildings and fences made of discarded bumpers, sticks and strips of tarp. “Downtown” Hadibo is a dirt road where goats outnumber the locals sitting on blankets hawking fruit. But in place of Wi-Fi and a morning latte, visitors are rewarded with silence, empty beaches and friendly children whose knowledge of English usually begins and ends with the phrase “I love you!” At night, the stars are so bright, you can see them through your eyelids.
Undersea show
On our first day on the island, my boyfriend, Paul, and I snorkeled at the coral reefs at Dihamri Marine Protected Area with tens of thousands of fish, whose iridescent yellow, hot pink, orange and turquoise skins put even the most flamboyant 1980s-era ski suit to shame. Just when we were returning to shore, we spotted a loggerhead sea turtle, the size of a throw pillow, gliding beneath us, seemingly unperturbed by the strange, masked fish following him from above. The next day, we hiked through a surreal, Dali-esque sort of wilderness, and into the Hoq Caves, which feature caverns the size of football fields and wind over a mile into the earth.
On the last day, we asked a local fisherman to take us off Socotra’s westernmost point, where fabled schools of dolphins are said to frolic. We waited for a while, watching the black cormorants nest in the cliffs, watching stingrays slip ghostlike below, and then the dolphins showed up. Dozens and dozens of them, leaping from the turquoise water, catapulting themselves into corkscrews, flopping onto their sides, and then throwing grinning glances in our direction, as if to be sure we were watching. And then, as quickly as they’d arrived, the dolphins began to swim away, careening and leaping into the sapphire sea, perhaps, I thought, on their way to Somalia.
Haley Sweetland Edwards is a former Seattle Times reporter now based in Yemen through the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting.


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Britney Spears Bikini Shots – Looking Hot

Britney Spears Bikini Shots – Looking Hot
Britney Spears must be very serious about changing her ways because she was spotted by the paparazzi recently in Las Vegas hanging around the pool of the Mirage in her bikini. This girl is looking very good.
Britney Spears Bikini Shots – Looking HotBritney Spears Bikini Shots – Looking Hot
Her body looks a lot more toned, and she has lost that matronly look that she had been sporting when her behavior was out of control.
If Britney keeps up this weight loss regimen and regains her old hot looks, there could be no stopping her quest to be back on top of the music world.
But celebrity news has been rather boring lately since our little bad girl turned over a new leaf. She is not out shaving her head or running over paparazzi feet.
And she hasn’t attacked anyone lately with her unbrella. It’s really b-o-r-i-n-g!
Now that Britney is behaving, Lindsay Lohan has quit drugs (?) and Nicole Richie is taking care of her baby, the only celebrity causing trouble is Amy Winehouse.
Britney Spears Bikini Shots – Looking Hot
Thank God for ol’ Amy. What would we do without her?
Britney’s manager, Larry Rudolph said that “She’s in the middle of recording her next album, which is going amazingly well, and her focus remains on the studio.”
See? Boring.

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